ʻO ka nani o ka lole jacquard e waiho ana i kahi kumu kūikawā i hanaʻia ma ke kālaiʻana i ka lehulehu o nā pae. ʻOiai i ka wā kahiko, ua kāhāhā ka poʻe hanahana no kaʻike i ka maikaʻi a me ka hoʻoponoponoʻana o kēiaʻili. I kēia lā,ʻaʻahuʻia nāʻaʻahu i kaulana loa i ka jacquard, uaʻaʻahuʻia e nā kaikamāhine a me nā wāhine hānai. ʻO nāʻano likeʻole a me nā lanu o ka lole e hiki ai i nā mea hana ke hana i nā lole i hala i ka hoʻokūkū.
Nāʻanoʻaʻahu o ka jacquard
Me ka ulana maʻalahi o nā mīkini, ua maʻalahi ka lole lapaʻau no kaʻaʻahu, no ka mea, hiki loa ke hukiʻia kēlā me kēia mamana. Ma waena o nāʻano laulima e hiki keʻikeʻia:
- kāpena pale ;
- kāhuʻahu;
- kāhiko komo;
- kāhuhu ;
- kāhiko pū;
- kākahu lole.
Ponoʻia, pono ke kākauʻia a kāhikoʻia me ka papa Jacquard, ka mea likeʻole me nā hiʻohiʻona mua. I kēia wā, ua hanaʻia kekahi woolen fabric me kahi mamana nui, a he mea paʻakikī a maʻalahi paha. ʻO kaʻaʻahu i hanaʻia i ka hulu hipa, hiki ke wehe a hoʻopaʻaʻia paha nāʻaoʻao. ʻO keʻanoʻoi loa o kaʻaʻahu lole.
Ma waena o nāʻaʻahu o ka lole kahiko kahiko,ʻo ka pāpale iʻoi aku ka mea kaulana loa. I kēlā manawa hoʻokahi, e noho nani anaʻo ia ma nā kaikamahine'ōpio, a ma luna o nā mea nona nā mea nani loa. Hiki i nā puke kiʻi puke ke hoʻololi i nā'ōmaka wahine. I kēiaʻano, he nui nāʻano hui like, kahi e hoʻohuiʻia ai ka jacquard i kekahi pūnaewele monopona. No laila, hiki iāʻoe ke hōʻoia i ka nani nani o ke kapa, akā e hana pū i ke kiʻi o kahi wahine wahine, wahine, male. ʻO ka manawa pinepine, heʻaʻahu hōʻailona me ka jacquard a me ka lole, a he mea kōkua ia e moe mālie ma ke kiʻi o kahi wahine.
Pono eʻikeʻia he mea nuiʻole i kēia mau waiwai waiwai e hana i nā hiʻohiʻona o maxi, o ka nui o nāʻaʻahu e lōʻihi ka lōʻihi i ke kuli. ʻO nā kaikamāhine, e like me kaʻaʻahu ahiahi, ke koho pinepine nei lākou i nā mea likeʻole. Nui nāʻano likeʻole:
- me nā kaulaʻole;
- me nā lima lima iʻekolu mau wahi;
- me kaʻopihi tulip;
- me kahi pūhaka i hoʻoukaʻia a pēlā aku.
Ma muli o kaʻoluʻolu o ka hīnaʻi jacquard me nāʻaʻahu a me nā hoʻonaninaniʻana i nāʻaʻahu inu hauʻoli o ka jacquard,ʻaʻole i waiwai nui i ka hoʻonani. No laila, hiki ke hoʻonuiʻia e kekahi pēpili monopona, kahi pua nani i ka lima mua, i hanaʻia me ka lole hoʻokahi a iʻole kekahi mea'ē aʻe.
Hiki i nā wāhine o ke au makahiki ke koho aku e like me ke kapaʻaʻahu i kaʻaʻahu ma ke kapaʻaʻahu i kaʻaʻahuʻaʻahu i kaʻaʻahu - mai ka jacquard a hiki i ke kuli. Hiki i kēia kŘkohu ke hūnā i nā hemahema o ke kiʻi a hoʻonui aku i ka maikaʻi, i ka wehe ponoʻana i nā wāwae. Hiki ke hoʻokani i ka pū kani i luna'ē aʻe:
- kola;
- V-leki;
- kaʻoki oval;
- pōʻoki'āpana;
- me ke kaulaʻole.
Hiki keʻano me ka lima lima, hiki keʻokoʻa a iʻole loa e hemo.
ʻO kahiʻaʻahu hōʻaʻahu no nā wāhine piha heʻano nui me nāʻano olonā elongated. E kōkua ia i ka hana i ka hopena o ka poho kaumaha o ka hoʻokomoʻana ma nāʻaoʻao o ka lime a iʻole kekahi mau lemu uila.
Me ka palaualelo a pau o ka mea, ua hiki i kaʻaʻahu lole ke hāʻawi iā ia i kaʻanoʻoihana aʻoi aku. Ināʻaʻole i hoʻopihaʻia kaʻaʻahu i nā pua, aʻaʻole pono ka'ōmaʻomaʻo a loaʻa,ʻaʻole hiki ke hele i kaʻahaʻaina wale nō, akā i kahi haleʻaina, kahi kiʻiʻoniʻoni a me kahi lā.
ʻO ke nānā aku iʻoi aku ke koʻikoʻi a me ke kāohiʻia i kahiʻaʻahu i hanaʻia e ka jacquard. ʻO keʻano o ke kūlana ke kau nei ma kaʻoiaʻiʻo e hanaʻia kona poʻo i keʻano o kahi kapa (i kēlā me kēiaʻano).ʻO kēiaʻanoʻaʻahu komo keʻano maikaʻi ma kekahiʻaoʻao, a he nani hoʻi ma kekahi. ʻO ka lole ulu, ke nānā aku, pili i nā kumu kiʻekiʻe a me ka hoʻopiliʻana ma kaʻaoʻao. I kaʻaʻahu Jacquard, hiki iāʻoe ke hele i kahiʻaina nui, kahi hoʻolauleʻa, kahi e kuleana aiʻoe a me ka hoʻokūkū. ʻO kēiaʻanoʻaʻahu mai ka jacquard e nānā nui i nāʻano hohonu, e like me: blue, burgundy, emerald, turquoise.
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